How removing trees can kill you

Photo: Flickr/rogersanderson
Photo: Flickr/rogersanderson

Jason Kane, PBS Newshour

The trees died first. One hundred million of them in the eastern and midwestern United States. The culprit: the emerald ash borer, a beetle that entered the U.S. through Detroit in 2002 and quickly spread to Iowa, New York, Virginia and nearly every state between. The bug attacks all 22 species of North American ash and kills nearly every tree it infests.

Then came the humans. In the 15 states infected with the bug starting, an additional 15,000 people died from cardiovascular disease and 6,000 more from lower respiratory disease compared with uninfected areas of the country.

A team of researchers with the U.S. Forest Services looked at data from 1,296 counties, accounted for the influence of other variables — things like income, race, and education — and came to a simple conclusion: Having fewer trees around may be bad for your health. Their findings, published recently in the American Journal of Preventive Medicine, suggest an associative rather than a direct, causal link between the death of trees and the death of humans.

Geoffrey Donovan, a research forester at the Forest Service’s Pacific Northwest Research Station, joined the NewsHour recently to discuss why.

NEWSHOUR: Geoffrey Donovan, thank you so much for joining us. It’s an interesting premise. What made you want to study this?

DONAVON: Well my basic hypothesis was that trees improve people’s health. And if that’s true, then killing 100 million of them in 10 years should have an effect. So if we take away these 100 million trees, does the health of humans suffer? We found that it does.

Researchers have shown this in other ways in the past. There’s been some famous research showing that people recover faster from surgery and take fewer drugs if their hospital room has a view of trees. Other research — including some of my own — has shown that mothers with more trees around their homes are less likely to have underweight babies. It’s been shown that if you put people in a natural environment, it can reduce their blood pressure, heart rate and other measures of stress. Obviously we also know that trees can improve air quality. And that’s why I looked at these two causes of death. I didn’t look at pancreatic cancer or something like that. I looked at cardiovascular disease and respiratory disease because both can be affected by air quality and stress.

NEWSHOUR: So the emergence of the emerald ash borer presented a new opportunity to study the effect?

DONAVON: Exactly. This is what we call a natural experiment. If the emerald ash borer were to come around your house, you would probably never see it because the beetle itself has no direct effect on people’s health. All it really does is serve as a tree removal agent. It just gets rid of the trees — kills them with no other effects, almost like the trees were beamed up into space or something.

That’s a really unique opportunity. Imagine if you were trying to look at the effect of trees growing on someone’s health and I got 100 people, I put them in 100 identical houses, and I planted trees in front of 50 of those houses and then waited. It would take 40 or 50 years before you found anything because trees grow really slowly. It’s hard to see significant changes quickly. On the other hand, trees die really quickly. That’s why you have this unique opportunity to see a big change in the natural environment in a short amount of time.

NEWSHOUR: And what did you find?

DONOVAN: Increased rates of death from cardiovascular and lower respiratory mortality in the counties with emerald ash borer. And interestingly, what we found was the effect got bigger the longer you had an infestation, which makes sense because it takes two to five years for a tree to die typically.

We looked across space and time and saw this repeated over and over again in places with very different demographic make-ups. So you’re seeing it in Michigan but then you’re seeing it in Ohio, you’re seeing it in Indiana, in New York, Maryland and Tennessee. So it’s happening again and again in very different places. Places with high education, with low education, with great income, with low income, with different racial makeups.

NEWSHOUR: So what’s the takeaway message here?

DONOVAN: I put it in terms of a question. Maybe we want to start thinking of trees as part of our public health infrastructure. Not only do they do the things we would expect like shade our houses and make our neighborhoods more beautiful, but maybe they do something more fundamental. Maybe trees are not only essential for the natural environment but just as essential for our well-being. That’s the message for public health officials.

For ordinary people: Get involved in planting trees. In most cities, either the city itself or nonprofits will help with tree planting efforts. Also, spend time in the natural environment. I think people intuitively know that. There’s a reason that we like to go walk in the woods or that we like to spend time in the park.

The only thing that’s new here is we’re trying to quantify it. If you talk to a painter or a poet or a writer, do you think they understand that trees are part of our well-being? Look at things like the tree of life metaphor in the Bible. Look at how often trees get painted as symbols of well-being or used in literature. The idea that trees and humans are linked is as old as humanity. So I think you need to look at my research in that context.

NEWSHOUR: Geoffrey Donovan, thank you so much for joining us.

DONOVAN: Thank you.

Five Creative Ways to Use Containers in Your Landscape

Patio container gardenBy Melinda Myers

Container gardens have long been used to add a spot of color by a fron Container gardens have long been used to add a spot of color by a front entrance or expand planting space in city lots, balconies and decks.  Don’t let past experience and tradition limit your vision.  Try one or more of these attractive, fun and functional ways to include containers in your landscape, large or small.

Add vertical interest to any garden or garden space.  Select a large attractive container filled with tall plants like papyrus and canna.  Or elevate a small pot on steppers or an overturned pot for added height.  Create height with smaller pots and plants by strategically stacking and planting them into a creative planting.  Try setting any of these planters right in the garden to create a dramatic focal point.

Create a privacy screen or mask a bad view.  Use an arbor or other support for hanging baskets and then place a few containers below for an attractive screen.  Or create a garden of containers to provide seasonal interest using a variety of plants. Use trees, shrubs, and ornamental grasses for height.  Save money by purchasing smaller plants.  Elevate these on overturned pots for added height and impact.  Mask the mechanics by wrapping the pots in burlap.  Then add a few colorful self-watering pots in the foreground for added color and beauty.  Fill these with annuals or perennials for additional seasonal interest.

Bring the garden right to your back door for ease of harvest and added entertainment.  A self-watering patio planter, windowbox, or rail planter reduces maintenance and makes harvesting herbs as easy as reaching out the window or backdoor.  Plus, guests will have fun harvesting their own fresh mint for mojitos or greens for their salads

Define outdoor living spaces within your landscape.  Use containers as walls and dividers to separate entertaining and play areas from quiet reflective spaces.  And consider using pots with built in casters or set them on moveable saucers to make moving these pots easier.  This way you can expand and shrink individual spaces as needed simply by moving the pots.

Create your own vacation paradise.  Use planters filled with cannas, bananas, palms and New Zealand flax for a more tropical flare.  Add some wicker furniture to complete the scene.  Or fill vertical gardens, an old child’s wagon, metal colander or wooden and concrete planters with cacti and succulents.  Add some old branches and large stones. You’ll feel as though you’ve hiked into the desert.

All you need is a bit of space and creativity to find fun new ways to put containers to work for you in the garden this season.

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening.  She hosts The Great Courses How to Grow Anything DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment segments which air on over 130 TV and radio stations throughout the U.S.  She is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and writes the twice monthly “Gardeners’ Questions” newspaper column. Melinda also has a column in Gardening How-to magazine.  She has a master’s degree in horticulture, is a certified arborist and was a horticulture instructor with tenure.  Her web site, www.melindamyers.com, offers gardening videos, podcasts, garden tips and more.

 

Sorticulture, Everett’s Garden Arts Festival

Sorticulture, Everett’s Garden Arts Festival

2013 festival June 7, 8 and 9

Legion Memorial Park

145 Alverson Blvd. at W. Marine View Dr.

Everett, Washington 98201

FREE ADMISSION

Sorticulture hours:

Fri: 10 am – 8 pm

Sat: 10 am – 6 pm

Sun: 10 am – 4 pm

 

Please park at Everett Community College’s North Broadway
parking lot
and take the bus that runs every 15-20 minutes.
Regular fares apply. You can return to the park with your car
to pick up purchases.

Dogs are allowed on leashes

Sorticulture unites art and the garden in a celebration of creative outdoor living. Our featured artists create distinctive hand-crafted garden art and our nurseries produce a wide variety of plants to transform your backyard. Learn tips and tricks from top regional gardening experts including KING 5’s Ciscoe Morris. Sorticulture also features display gardens, food fair, wine garden, live music and free activities for the kids.

 

Protecting Your Landscape from Wildlife Damage

By Melinda Myers

They’re cute, they’re furry and they love to eat – your landscape that is.  If you are battling with rabbits, deer, groundhogs or other wildlife, don’t give up.  And if you are lucky enough to be wildlife-free at the moment, be vigilant and prepared to prevent damage before these beautiful creatures move into your landscape to dine.

Anyone who has battled wildlife knows the frustration and difficulty involved in controlling them.  Your best defense is a fence.  A four foot high fence anchored tightly to the ground will keep out rabbits.   Five foot high fences around small garden areas will usually keep out deer.  They seem to avoid these small confined spaces.  The larger the area the more likely deer will enter. Woodchucks are more difficult.  They will dig under or climb over the fence.  You must place the fence at least 12″ below the soil surface with 4 to 5 feet above the ground.  Make sure gates are also secured from animals.

Some communities allow electric fences that provide a slight shock to help keep deer out of the landscape.  Another option is the wireless deer fence.  The system uses plastic posts with wire tips charged by AA batteries.  The plastic tip is filled with a deer attractant.  When the deer nuzzles the tip it gets a light shock, encouraging it to move on to other feeding grounds.

Scare tactics have been used for many years.  Motion sensitive sprinklers, blow up owls, clanging pans and rubber snakes strategically placed around a garden may help scare away unwanted critters.   Unfortunately urban animals are used to noise and may not be alarmed.  Move and alternate the various scare tactics for more effective control.  The animals won’t be afraid of an owl that hasn’t moved in two weeks.

Homemade and commercial repellents can also be used. Make sure they are safe to use on food crops if treating fruits and vegetables.   You’ll have the best results if applied before the animals start feeding.  It is easier to prevent damage than break old feeding patterns.  Look for natural products like those found in Messina Wildlife’s Animal Stopper line.  They are made of herbs and smell good, so they repel animals without repelling you and your guests.

Live trapping can be inhumane and should be a last option.  Babies can be separated from their parents, animals can be released in unfamiliar territory, and trapped animals can suffer from heat and a lack of food and water.  Plus, once you catch the animal, you need to find a place to release it.  The nearby parks, farms and forests already have too many of their own animals and therefore they don’t want yours.

The key to success is variety, persistence, and adaptability.  Watch for animal tracks, droppings and other signs that indicate wildlife have moved into your area.  Apply repellents and install scare tactics and fencing before the animals begin feeding. Try a combination of tactics, continually monitor for damage and make changes as needed.  And when you feel discouraged, remember that gardeners have been battling animals in the garden long before us.

 

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening. She hosts the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio segments and is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ web site, www.melindamyers.com, features gardening videos, gardening tips, podcasts, and more.    

 

Celebration of Food Festival May 19

LYNNWOOD – The second annual Celebration of Food Festival takes place Sunday, May 19, offering the public an event to taste, explore, and experience real food from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at the Lynnwood Convention Center. Free samples, demonstrations, displays and more will be available, as well as activities by farm and garden professionals. This event showcases how to grow, where to purchase or how to prepare/preserve real food. Resources include experts, displays, books, and items available for children and adults. Vendors representing farming, edible plant production, food preparation, and farmers markets will be on hand. For more information, contact Festival Coordinator Chris Hudyma at chudyma@edcc.edu.

Garden Revival

 

snip n drip photo

By Melinda Myers

Spring floods, summer droughts and temperature extremes take their toll on gardens and the gardeners who tend them. Help your gardens recover from the crazy temperature and moisture extremes that seem to occur each year.

Start by assessing the current condition of your landscape.  Remove dead plants as soon as possible.  They can harbor insect and disease organisms that can infest your healthy plantings.  Consider replacing struggling plants with healthy plants better suited to the space, growing conditions and landscape design.  You often achieve better results in less time by starting over rather than trying to nurse a sick plant back to health.

As always, select plants suited to the growing environment and that includes normal rainfall.  Every season is different, but selecting plants suited to the average conditions will minimize the care needed and increase your odds for success.  Roses, coneflowers, sedums and zinnias are just a few drought tolerant plants.  Elderberry, ligularia, Siberian iris and marsh marigold are a few moisture tolerant plants.

Be prepared for worse case scenario.  Install an irrigation system, such as the Snip-n-drip soaker system, in the garden.  It allows you to apply water directly to the soil alongside plants.  This means less water wasted to evaporation, wind and overhead watering.  You’ll also reduce the risk of disease by keeping water off the plant leaves.

A properly installed and managed irrigation system will help save water.  The convenience makes it easy to water thoroughly, encouraging deep roots, and only when needed.  Turn the system on early in the day while you tend to other gardening and household chores.  You’ll waste less water to evaporation and save time since the system does the watering for you.

Capture rainwater and use it to water container and in-ground gardens.  Rain barrels and cisterns have long been used for this purpose and are experiencing renewed interest. Look for these features when buying or making your own rain barrel. Make sure the spigot is located close to the bottom so less water collects and stagnates. Select one that has a screen over the opening to keep out debris.  And look for an overflow that directs the water into another barrel or away from the house.

Add a bit of paint to turn your rain barrel into a piece of art.  Or tuck it behind some containers, shrubs or a decorative trellis.  Just make sure it is easy to access.

Be sure to mulch trees and shrubs with shredded bark or woodchips to conserve moisture, suppress weeds and reduce competition from nearby grass.  You’ll eliminate hand trimming while protecting trunks and stems from damaging weed whips and mowers.

Invigorate weather worn perennials with compost and an auger bit.  Spread an inch of compost over the soil surface.  Then use an auger bit, often used for planting bulbs, and drill the compost into the soil in open areas throughout the garden.  You’ll help move the compost to the root zone of the plants and aerate the soil with this one activity.

A little advance planning and preparation can reduce your workload and increase your gardening enjoyment.

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening. She hosts the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio segments and is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers web site is www.melindamyers.com

 

Maximize Your Harvest This Season Despite Limited Time, Space and Energy

Cucumber-7.11by gardening expert Melinda Myers

Increase your garden’s productivity even when space, time and energy are limited.  Just follow these six simple planting, maintenance and harvesting techniques for a more bountiful harvest.

Maximize your planting space with wide rows.  Leave just enough room for plants to reach their maximum size.  Make wide rows, 4 to 5 feet wide, so you can reach all plants for maintenance and harvest.  Minimizing walkways means more planting space.

Try interplanting.  Grow short season crops like lettuce and radishes between long season crops like cabbage, tomatoes and peppers.  The short season crops will be ready to harvest when the long season crops are reaching mature size.  You’ll double your harvest and grow more vegetables, not weeds between your longer season plants.

Grow more plants per row with succession planting.  Start the season with cool season vegetables like lettuce and spinach. Once these are harvested and temperatures warm replace with beans and onions.  Harvest these and plant a fall crop of radishes or lettuce.

When you use these intensive planting techniques, be sure to incorporate a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer, like Milorganite, at the start of the season.  Then add a mid-season nutrient boost if needed. The slow release nitrogen won’t burn even during the hot dry weather of summer. Plus, it won’t interfere with flowering or fruiting.

Go vertical.  Train vine crops up decorative or functional trellises and supports.   You’ll not only save space, but you will also reduce disease problems and increase the harvest.  Growing cucumbers and melons increase light penetration and air flow, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.  Pole beans are much easier to harvest and produce an additional picking.  Secure large fruited vegetables like melons to the trellis with a cloth sling.

Be sure to plant vegetables in containers if in-ground space is limited.  A 5-gallon bucket or comparable size container is perfect for a tomato.  Peppers and eggplants will thrive in a bit smaller pot.  Grow vine crops in containers and allow them to crawl over the deck or patio instead of valuable gardening space.  Mix flowers and herbs in with your vegetables.  You’ll increase the beauty while adding additional fragrance to the pot.

Harvest often and at the proper time.  Zucchini and other summer squash should be picked when 6 to 8 inches long or in the case of patty pan squash it reaches 3 inches in diameter.  The flavor is better than those baseball bat size zucchini and you’ll have plenty to eat and share.  Harvest your head of cabbage when firm and full size.  Leave the bottom leaves and roots intact.  Soon you will have 4 or 5 smaller heads to harvest and enjoy.

With a bit of planning and creativity you can find ways to increase the enjoyment and harvest in any size garden.

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening. She hosts the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio segments and is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers web site is www.melindamyers.com

 

Western tent caterpillars back en masse this spring

 

The Western tent caterpillar’s (Malacosoma californicum pluviale) body is dark with spots of white, orange and blue. White and orange-yellow tufts of hair poke out from each segment.
The Western tent caterpillar’s (Malacosoma californicum pluviale) body is dark with spots of white, orange and blue. White and orange-yellow tufts of hair poke out from each segment.
 
 
By KIE RELYEA — THE BELLINGHAM HERALD

Wiggling masses of white-orange-and-black caterpillars are emerging from their silken nests to munch on tender leaves – signaling a second spring when Western tent caterpillars might be out in big numbers.

“I have seen them out. They’re not as bad as last year. What I’m guessing is we’re getting a resurgence of a population that peaked last year,” said Chris Benedict, agriculture agent at the Washington State University Extension office in Whatcom County.

“Though they’ll be out, they’ll be less of an issue than last year,” he added.

The native caterpillars are considered a nuisance but largely harmless. They are the larvae form of brown, stubby-looking moths that will emerge from cocoons later in June or July to mate and lay eggs.

Population booms are cyclical.

The caterpillars hatch from eggs over-wintering on tree branches. Once they hatch, they start eating.

They prefer the foliage of most deciduous trees and shrubs such as alder, roses and fruit trees.

And while the hungry caterpillars put a visible dent in the surrounding greenery – which people find unsightly, along with the masses of worms – they usually don’t kill the healthy trees they feast on, according to gardening experts.

But small trees might not be able to recover from such defoliation.

The WSU Master Gardener program has been fielding questions from the public.

“We’ve been seeing folks bring in some young tent caterpillars wanting to know what they are and what to do about them,” said Beth Chisholm, master gardener and coordinator of the Community First Garden Project through WSU Extension.

She said people shouldn’t be “too alarmed.”

If people want to get the caterpillars off their fruit trees, Chisholm recommended they cut off the infested branch, put it in a bag, tie it up and put it in the garbage.

 

CATERPILLAR CONTROL

• Insecticides are discouraged. Unless trees are already weak, tent caterpillar damage isn’t permanent; trees will grow new leaves after the caterpillars have left. Poisons also can kill beneficial insects, including those that attack the caterpillars.

• Since 2012 was a big year for tent caterpillars, they could return in large numbers again this spring. This fall or winter, pick out and destroy the moth’s eggs, which appear in foamy, gray, half-inch cases around twigs and on tree trunks.

• Strip or prune out the tent-like nests found at the end of branches as soon as they appear. Remove the nest in the early morning or evening, when most of the caterpillars will be inside.

• Bring questions and caterpillar-infested plant samples to the WSU Extension’s Master Gardener diagnostic clinic during regular business hours at the extension office, 1000 N. Forest St. in Bellingham, or call 360-676-6736.

• Learn more by going online to whatcom.wsu.edu and typing “tent caterpillars” into the search window.

SOURCE: WSU Extension Reach Kie Relyea at kie.relyea@bellinghamherald.com or call 360-715-2234.

Weed warriors vanquishing Scotch broom on local prairie

Capable of throwing its seed as far as 20 feet with a single pop, Scotch broom is a tough invader.

By Lynda V. Mapes

Seattle Times staff reporter

Steve Ringman / The Seattle TimesBarry Bidwell walks through a patch of Scotch broom, which can grow between 6 and 12 feet tall, at the Glacial Heritage Preserve. Bidwell has battled broom for two decades.
Steve Ringman / The Seattle Times
Barry Bidwell walks through a patch of Scotch broom, which can grow between 6 and 12 feet tall, at the Glacial Heritage Preserve. Bidwell has battled broom for two decades.

Scotch broom, also called Scot’s broom, blossoms in full color at Thurston County’s Glacial Heritage Preserve. A member of the legume family, its seeds are produced in pods. The pods dry in the summer sun and open with a pop, shooting seeds as far as 20 feet.

 Who would think this soft landscape, with its undulating blue waves of wildflowers, flitting butterflies and calls of meadowlark, could be the scene of such battle.

But war it was, to win back, acre by acre, more than 700 acres of native prairie at Thurston County’s Glacial Heritage Preserve south of Olympia, from an invasion of Scotch broom.

The sunny flowers of Scotch broom are just now coming into full bloom, painting roadsides, highway ramps, clear cuts and any other open ground yellow all over Puget Sound country and beyond. But its pretty face conceals a commando’s swagger.

Since it was brought here, probably as an ornamental during white settlement in the 1860s, Cytisus scoparius has turned into one piggy guest. A native of western Europe, Scotch broom, also called Scot’s broom, has so worn out its welcome it’s classified as a noxious weed and been quarantined by the state Department of Agriculture. That means it is not to be sold, and is discouraged from planting by anyone for any purpose. Yet it continues to devour more acres of native habitat every year.

No wonder:

A member of the legume family, its seeds are produced in pods, which, as they dry in the summer sun, literally go ballistic, splitting and twisting open with a pop, ejecting seeds as far as 20 feet.

As if that wasn’t enough, the plant can even enlist an army of soldiers to help it conquer ever more ground. Ants eagerly pick up its seeds, dispersing them far and wide as they take the seeds back to the nest to feed fatty deposits on the seed surface to their young. The ants then deposit the seeds in their waste pile — where the seeds vigorously sprout in a compost of ant poo.

Left alone, Scotch broom can grow in stands so dense it alters the very chemistry of the soil in which it grows, as it sets nitrogen in nodules on its roots, making the ground less suitable for the native plants it replaces.

That same ability to fix nitrogen in the soil also enables Scotch broom to thrive just about anywhere, even in the nutrient-poor soils of native grasslands and prairies, where it quickly grows 6 to 12 feet tall.

Its green stems enable it to photosynthesize even in winter, when rains stoke its lush growth, notes Sarah Reichard, director of the University of Washington Botanic Gardens. She and one of her students, Dean Dougherty, published an article in 2004 that noted a single plant could be covered with more than 800 seed pods, producing more than 9,650 viable seeds per year that can last decades — 50 years is not unheard of. And every time soil is disturbed where Scotch broom grows — say to pull it — more seed is churned up, to sprout a new generation.

Steve Ringman / The Seattle TimesBarry Bidwell, of Graham, pulls up Scotch broom after first loosening it with a Weed Wrench, a tool developed specifically for removing the noxious weed. Thanks to volunteers like Bidwell, where Scotch broom once reigned blue camas flowers now bloom in the Glacial Heritage Preserve.
Steve Ringman / The Seattle Times
Barry Bidwell, of Graham, pulls up Scotch broom after first loosening it with a Weed Wrench, a tool developed specifically for removing the noxious weed. Thanks to volunteers like Bidwell, where Scotch broom once reigned blue camas flowers now bloom in the Glacial Heritage Preserve.

But persistence has its rewards. At the Glacial Heritage reserve, volunteers cut, pulled, poisoned and burned back broom. They have sawed it down and attacked it with WeedWackers fitted with metal blades. Mowed it with brush hogs, pulled it out with chains tied on the bumper of their cars and poisoned it with herbicide.

Scotch broom may be the only weed with a tool created just for it: a Weed Wrench. A demolition demon standing chest high, it’s used to clamp onto the trunk of the most mammoth specimen of Scotch broom, and lever it out of the ground with a satisfying crunch.

When volunteer Michelle Blanchard, of Olympia, first started clearing Scotch broom at the reserve, it grew so tall that as she rode her horse into its thickets, she disappeared from view.

“It’s raining out, and it’s cold, and snowing, and we are looking around thinking, ‘This is crazy, there is still another 1,000 acres of Scotch broom,’ ” she said of the early days of the battle of the broom.

Two things helped turn the tide: fire, deployed repeatedly in controlled burns, and judicious doses of herbicide. Followed with diligent hand pulling, volunteers working first with The Nature Conservancy, and then the Center for Natural Lands Management, which stewards the property today, started making headway. With continued work ever since, the results today are dramatic.

As Blanchard walked the prairie this week, a meadowlark called across the open, rolling terrain. Checkerspot, a rare native butterfly, sipped nectar from blue pools of camas flowers. Golden paintbrush, one of the rarest native plants in Washington, glowed as if lit from within.

To Barry Bidwell, a volunteer slugging it out with broom at this site for nearly 20 years, seeing the native plants here swell into full bloom this week was a pleasure dearly felt. A former Boeing engineer, with the license plate ECOVOL (short for ecology volunteer), he first started working at the prairie to give shape and purpose to his retirement.

Over the years, Bidwell said, he has come to believe restoration work is good for more than just the land.

“It gives people the insight that something can actually be made better.”

Lynda V. Mapes: 206-464-2736 or lmapes@seattletimes.com